Have you ever imagined living in a place where your entire town fits under one roof? That’s the reality in Whittier, Alaska — a remote town where the 14-story Begich Towers houses almost the entire population along with schools, stores, and offices. When I first heard about this, I pictured something out of a science fiction story, yet here it is, standing strong against fierce Alaska weather and isolation. Join me as I share the curious charm and resilience of Whittier’s one-building town life.
Begich Towers: The Town Within a Building
When you first hear about Whittier, Alaska, it’s hard to imagine a place where almost the entire town lives under one roof. But that’s exactly what you find at Begich Towers, a 14-story building that serves as the heart and home of this remote community. Here, living under one roof isn’t just a phrase—it’s a way of life. Begich Towers is not just a residential building; it’s a one building town, combining housing units, essential services, and a unique sense of community, all shaped by its Cold War military origins.
The Origins: From Military Barracks to Community Hub
Begich Towers was originally built in 1957, during the height of the Cold War. Back then, it was known as the Hodge Building and served as a military barracks for the U.S. Army. The structure was designed to withstand the harsh Alaskan weather and to provide secure, year-round housing for military personnel stationed in this strategic location. The building’s thick concrete walls and utilitarian design are reminders of its Cold War military building roots, and many of these features remain today, giving Begich Towers a distinct character that stands out in modern Alaska.
Living Under One Roof: Housing Nearly All of Whittier
Today, Begich Towers contains 196 apartments and has the capacity to house up to 1,000 people. However, the permanent population of Whittier Alaska is much smaller—around 300 residents call this building home. Nearly everyone in town lives here, making it one of the most unique housing units in the world. The corridors of Begich Towers function like the streets of a small city. Walking down the hallway, you might bump into your neighbor, the police chief, or even the mayor, all without ever stepping outside.
Living in Begich Towers is like living in a small city under one roof.
A Self-Contained Community: Services and Amenities
Begich Towers is more than just apartments stacked on top of each other. It’s designed to meet almost every need of its residents, especially important given Whittier’s isolation and extreme weather. Under one roof, you’ll find:
Grocery store – Residents can shop for essentials without facing the cold or snow.
Post office – Mailing letters or picking up packages is just an elevator ride away.
Health clinic – Basic medical care is available right inside the building.
Police station – Security and law enforcement are always close by.
Two churches – Spiritual needs are met within the same walls.
Laundry facilities – Shared laundry rooms make chores convenient.
Playground and recreation areas – Spaces for children and families to relax and play.
Municipal offices – City administration is handled on-site.
One of the most remarkable features is the tunnel that connects Begich Towers directly to the local school. Even during fierce storms and heavy snowfall, children can safely walk to class without ever stepping outside. This tunnel is a lifeline during the long, harsh winters, making education accessible year-round.
Everyday Life: A Unique Culture and Strong Community
Life inside Begich Towers is unlike anywhere else. Because everything is so close, it’s common to see residents running errands in pajamas or slippers. Meeting the police chief in the grocery store or chatting with the mayor in the laundry room is just part of daily life. The building’s corridors are more than passageways—they’re the social streets of Whittier. This setup fosters a tight-knit community where everyone knows each other, and neighbors often become friends.
Despite the building’s Cold War military design, the spirit inside is warm and welcoming. The shared spaces and frequent encounters create a sense of belonging that’s hard to find in larger, more spread-out towns. Living under one roof in Begich Towers means sharing not just a building, but a way of life.
Begich Towers: The Heart of Whittier Alaska
Begich Towers stands as a testament to adaptability and community spirit. Its history as a Cold War military building, combined with its current role as a one building town, makes it a fascinating example of how people can thrive in even the most challenging environments. For the residents of Whittier, living under one roof isn’t just practical—it’s the foundation of their unique and closely connected community.
Living Life in Whittier: Community, Convenience, and Culture
When I first stepped inside Begich Towers, I realized that Whittier community life is unlike anywhere else in Alaska—or the world. This fourteen-story building is more than just a home for nearly 1,000 residents; it is the heart of Whittier, a place where community, convenience, and culture come together under one roof. Living here means experiencing a unique blend of practicality and togetherness, all shaped by the building’s design and the town’s remote location.
The Corridors as Streets: Everyday Encounters
Inside Begich Towers, the long corridors act as indoor streets. Residents greet each other as they pass by, sometimes in pajamas or slippers, running quick errands or just heading to the laundry room. It’s not unusual to bump into a neighbor, a teacher, or even the mayor while picking up groceries. As one resident put it:
“In this building, it’s normal to meet your mayor in pajamas in the grocery store.”
This casual, friendly atmosphere is a hallmark of Whittier community life. The building’s design encourages spontaneous interactions, making it easy to form connections and friendships.
Convenience at Every Turn: Essential Amenities Inside
One of the most remarkable aspects of Begich Towers is the sheer convenience it offers. Nearly everything a resident might need is available without stepping outside, which is especially important during harsh Alaskan winters when venturing outdoors can be difficult or even dangerous.
Grocery Store: The on-site grocery store stocks everything from canned goods to personal care items. Even though there isn’t a full pharmacy, you can find painkillers and supplements easily. The store is well-organized, and you’ll find essentials and treats alike.
Laundry Room: The laundry facilities are located on the lower floor, where residents can wash clothes and grab a snack or drink from vending machines while they wait.
Health Clinic: There’s a small health clinic on the third floor, providing basic medical care and support for the community.
Municipal Offices and Post Office: Need to pay a bill or send a letter? The municipal offices and post office are just an elevator ride away.
Police Station and Jail: Security is taken seriously, with a police station and even a small jail inside the building. Crime is rare, but the presence of law enforcement keeps everyone feeling safe.
Community Spaces: Two churches, a children’s playground, and a school connected by a tunnel all contribute to the building’s role as a true community hub.
Culture and Diversity: A Cosmopolitan Mix
Despite its small size, Whittier is home to a rich mix of cultures. Residents include Samoan, Filipino, Native Alaskan, and other backgrounds, creating a cosmopolitan atmosphere. This diversity is reflected in school events and community gatherings, where multilingual celebrations and shared traditions are common. Children grow up surrounded by a tapestry of cultures, learning to appreciate differences and celebrate together.
Rhythm of Life: Tunnel Timings and Shared Routines
Life in Whittier follows a unique rhythm, shaped by the town’s geography and the tunnel that connects it to the outside world. The tunnel closes at 11:15 pm each night, so everyone must plan their movements carefully. If you miss the closing, you might have to spend the night in your car or wait until morning. This shared experience adds to the sense of unity among residents, as everyone adapts to the same schedule and routines.
Trust and Neighborly Support
One of the most striking features of Whittier community life is the deep sense of trust. People leave their cars and belongings unlocked, confident that neighbors will look out for each other. Small acts of kindness—like sharing groceries or cat food—are common. Even though CCTV cameras monitor the halls, crime is almost nonexistent. When minor incidents do occur, they are handled quickly and fairly, often within the building itself.
Living in Begich Towers means more than just shelter; it means being part of a supportive, vibrant community where convenience and culture are woven into daily life. The building stands as a testament to what’s possible when people come together to create a true community hub in the heart of Alaska.
Navigating Isolation: The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel and Accessibility
Living in Whittier, Alaska, means living with a unique sense of isolation. The town is surrounded by mountains and water, and for most people, the only way in or out is through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel. This tunnel is not just a road—it is the main artery that keeps Whittier connected to the rest of Alaska and beyond. As someone who calls Whittier home, I have come to understand just how much our lives revolve around this tunnel and its schedule.
The Tunnel: Whittier’s Lifeline
The Anton Anderson Tunnel stretches for 4 kilometers (2.4 miles) beneath the mountains. Originally built by the US military as a railway tunnel, it was designed to serve the strategic needs of World War II. For decades, only trains passed through, carrying supplies and people to this isolated Alaska town. In 2000, the tunnel was opened to vehicle traffic, transforming Whittier’s accessibility and daily life.
The tunnel is the lifeline that connects Whittier to the world outside.
Today, the tunnel is a one-way route that changes direction every half-hour. This means that for thirty minutes, vehicles can travel into Whittier, and then the direction switches, allowing cars to leave. The schedule is strict, and everyone in town knows to plan their trips around these half-hour windows. It’s a routine that shapes everything from grocery runs to emergency evacuations.
Unique Transportation Challenges
The tunnel’s design creates some unusual transportation challenges. Bicycles and pedestrians are not allowed to pass through. If you don’t have a car, you must rely on someone who does, or wait for the rare shuttle service. This restriction makes Whittier accessibility very different from other towns. For many residents, it means always coordinating with neighbors or planning far in advance for even the simplest trips.
The tunnel closes every night at 11:15 pm and does not reopen until 5:30 am. If you are outside Whittier when the tunnel closes, you have no choice but to wait in your vehicle until morning. I have spent more than one night parked at the tunnel entrance, watching the hours tick by. It’s an experience that every Whittier resident knows well, and it adds a layer of unpredictability to life here.
Emergency Access and Community Adaptability
The tunnel is not just important for daily routines—it is absolutely critical during emergencies. If someone in Whittier needs urgent medical care, the only way to reach a hospital by land is through the tunnel. During the hours when the tunnel is closed, emergency vehicles can request special access, but this is not always immediate, especially in severe weather. The community has learned to adapt, keeping well-stocked supplies and relying on each other in times of need.
There is an alternative: the sea. Whittier’s port allows for boats and ferries to come and go, but this is not always practical, especially in winter or during storms. For most residents, the tunnel remains the only reliable connection to the outside world. Deliveries, mail, and even tourists all pass through the Anton Anderson Tunnel, making it the heartbeat of the town.
Living with the Tunnel’s Rhythm
The tunnel’s schedule shapes the rhythm of life in Whittier. Whether it’s planning church services, school events, or simply a trip to Anchorage for supplies, everyone checks the tunnel timetable first. The dependency on this single route means that weather, mechanical issues, or accidents can disrupt the entire town. When the tunnel closes unexpectedly, Whittier becomes a true island, cut off until the way is clear again.
Length: 4 kilometers (2.4 miles)
Opened to cars: 2000
Direction changes: Every 30 minutes
Closed daily: 11:15 pm – 5:30 am
Alternative access: By sea only
For me and my neighbors, the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel is more than just a passage—it is a symbol of Whittier’s resilience and adaptability. Every journey through the tunnel is a reminder of the unique challenges and rewards of life in this isolated Alaska town.
Weathering Whittier: Battling Extreme Climate and Building Resilience
Living in Whittier, Alaska, means facing some of the most extreme weather conditions in North America. The town is famous for its snowy winters, relentless tundra winds, and the unique way its residents have adapted to survive and thrive under one roof in Begich Towers. As someone who has experienced Whittier’s climate firsthand, I can say that resilience isn’t just a trait here—it’s a necessity.
Extreme Weather Alaska: Winds, Snow, and Subzero Temperatures
Whittier’s winters are legendary for their severity. It’s not uncommon for winds to reach up to 95 km/h (60 mph), powerful enough to uproot trees and make venturing outside dangerous. Heavy snowfall is another constant companion, with accumulations reaching as much as 5 meters (16 feet) in a single season. Temperatures often plunge below -20°C (-5°F), and the combination of cold, wind, and snow can make daily life a true test of endurance.
These extreme weather conditions shape every aspect of life in Whittier. Outdoor activities become limited, and the town’s design and infrastructure have evolved to help residents cope with the long, harsh winters. The Begich Towers, in particular, stand as a symbol of adaptation and community resilience.
Begich Towers: A Fortress Against Nature
Begich Towers stands as a fortress, built to protect its residents against nature’s fiercest elements.
Originally constructed during the Cold War era as part of a military installation, Begich Towers was designed with Alaska’s unpredictable climate in mind. The building’s robust structure is both earthquake-resistant and fire-resistant. In fact, when the 1964 Great Alaskan Earthquake—the second strongest ever recorded globally, at magnitude 9.2—struck, Begich Towers suffered only minimal damage. This is thanks to its unique design, which includes 20 cm (8-inch) gaps between its three main sections. These gaps allow the building to flex and absorb seismic shocks, reducing the risk of catastrophic structural failure.
The building’s design also helps residents weather the frequent storms and heavy snowfalls. With almost the entire town’s population living under one roof, people can go about their daily routines without stepping outside into the tundra winds or deep snowdrifts. Internal corridors connect apartments, offices, and community spaces, making Begich Towers a true haven during the worst of Alaska’s winters.
Life Indoors: Community and Adaptability
When the weather outside is too dangerous, life in Whittier shifts indoors. Residents find creative ways to stay active and connected. Many spend time playing video games, working out in the gym, or participating in group activities within the building. The communal spaces—like the recreation room, gym, and even a bowling alley—become vital hubs for social interaction and physical activity.
Video games and board games are popular pastimes, especially among younger residents.
Fitness activities in the gym help people stay healthy during the long, dark winter months.
Community events and gatherings are often held in shared spaces, fostering a sense of togetherness.
The extreme weather also means that outdoor mobility is often restricted. Snow removal is a constant challenge, and strong winds can make even short trips hazardous. As a result, the design of Begich Towers—where essential services like the post office, grocery store, and even a school are all housed within the same complex—becomes even more important.
Resilience in the Face of Adversity
Despite the harsh climate, Whittier’s residents display remarkable adaptability and community spirit. The shared experience of battling the elements brings people together, creating a unique sense of camaraderie. Whether it’s helping a neighbor clear snow, organizing indoor activities, or simply sharing stories in the hallway, the people of Whittier have learned to turn adversity into opportunity.
The story of Begich Towers and its residents is a testament to human resilience. In the face of extreme weather Alaska is known for—tundra winds, snowy winters, and the ever-present threat of earthquakes—this community continues to thrive, proving that with the right design and a strong sense of togetherness, even the harshest environments can be weathered.
The Cold War Legacy and Architectural Uniqueness of Begich Towers
When I first set foot inside Begich Towers in Whittier, Alaska, I could immediately sense that this was no ordinary apartment building. Its thick concrete walls, narrow corridors, and fortress-like exterior hint at a past shaped by a very different purpose. To truly understand Begich Towers, we have to look back to the Cold War era, when its story began as the Hodge Building—a military barracks constructed in 1957 for the U.S. Army.
Origins in the Cold War: A Military Structure by Design
Begich Towers was born out of the Cold War, a time when military preparedness was a top priority for the United States. The building was part of a larger military base in Whittier, designed to house soldiers and withstand the harsh Alaskan environment. The architecture reflects the mid-20th-century military design, with an emphasis on durability, security, and practicality. The robust concrete structure, with walls nearly 20 centimeters thick, was built to resist not only the elements but also potential threats. This utilitarian approach is evident throughout the building, from its window placements to its reinforced stairwells and narrow hallways.
A Fortress-Like Complex: More Than Just Apartments
What sets Begich Towers apart from typical residential buildings is its original function as a self-contained military hub. The building was not just a place to sleep; it was designed to meet nearly every need of its residents. The complex included:
A hospital and dental office for medical care
Two shooting ranges for military training
A jail for security and discipline
A post office and bank for daily transactions
Barber shop, theater, hobby room, and even a bowling alley for recreation
This all-in-one approach was necessary due to Whittier’s remote location and extreme weather conditions, which often made travel outside the building difficult or impossible. Living here meant that everything you needed was literally under one roof—a concept that still defines life in Begich Towers today.
Part of a Larger Military Building Program
Begich Towers was just one piece of a larger military building program in Whittier. Nearby, the Buckner Building stood as another massive structure, often described as a fortress itself. While Begich Towers continued to be used after the military withdrew in the 1960s, the Buckner Building was abandoned and now sits empty, its halls littered with beer cans and graffiti. Some say that bears even take shelter there during the winter. The contrast between the still-lively Begich Towers and the ghostly Buckner Building is a powerful reminder of the area’s military past.
From Military Barracks to Community Center
After the Army’s departure, Begich Towers gradually transformed from a military barracks into a unique residential and community center. Despite its utilitarian origins, the building evolved to house not only apartments but also essential services for the entire town of Whittier. Today, the post office, city offices, and even the local school are all located within its walls. This adaptation has given the building a new life, but its military heritage is still visible in every corner.
Architectural Features: Resilience and Nostalgia
The architecture of Begich Towers is a testament to resilience. Built to withstand earthquakes, blizzards, and the test of time, the structure has survived for over 70 years. Many of the original furnishings and design elements from the Cold War era remain, giving the building a nostalgic, functional vibe. Walking through the halls, I can see old fixtures, sturdy doors, and communal spaces that speak to its history as a place where people had to rely on each other for survival and support.
Its history as a military barracks gives Begich Towers a unique character unmatched by typical apartment buildings.
The blend of military architecture and civilian adaptation creates an atmosphere that is both practical and distinctive. The story of Begich Towers is not just about a building—it’s about how a Cold War military structure became the heart of a remote Alaskan community, shaping daily life in ways that are rare anywhere else in America.
Challenges and Adaptations: Disadvantages of Life in Whittier’s Single Building Town
Living in Whittier, Alaska, especially within the walls of Begich Towers, is a truly unique experience. While the close-knit community and shared spaces offer a sense of belonging, there are undeniable disadvantages to this one building town setup. Over time, I have come to understand that living here means accepting the quirks and challenges that come with such a unique housing arrangement. These challenges are shaped by Whittier’s geography, its isolated location, and the infrastructure that defines daily life.
One of the most significant disadvantages of Whittier’s housing setup is the limited usable land. The vast majority of the land surrounding the town is owned either by federal agencies or the railroad, which means that almost everyone is confined to living in Begich Towers. This single building houses the majority of the town’s population, making it both the heart of the community and a symbol of its limitations. The lack of alternative housing options can make it feel restrictive, especially for those who crave privacy or more personal space.
The cost of living in Whittier is also higher than in many other places, largely due to its remote location. Goods and services must be transported in, and the expenses add up quickly. For example, groceries and everyday items are noticeably more expensive here than in larger Alaskan cities. Rent is another significant factor, with prices ranging from $700 per month for a one-room apartment to $1200 for a three-room unit. These costs reflect not only the limited housing supply but also the high cost of transportation and utilities in such an isolated Alaska town.
Mobility is another challenge that comes with life in Whittier. The town is accessible by only one tunnel, which is shared with the railroad and operates on a strict schedule. The tunnel closes every night at 11:15 pm and does not reopen until 5:30 am. This means that if you are not back in town before the tunnel closes, you are stuck outside until morning. I have heard stories of residents who missed the tunnel and had to sleep in their cars or camp nearby, hoping they had enough fuel to keep warm until they could return. The tunnel also prohibits pedestrian and bicycle traffic, further limiting options for getting in and out of town. This restriction can be especially stressful in emergencies or if someone needs to leave unexpectedly.
The isolation of Whittier is both physical and social. While the community inside Begich Towers is strong, it can sometimes feel like the rest of the world is far away. The silence here is so profound that I can often hear the wind blowing through my window, a reminder of how removed we are from the bustle of other towns and cities. Some residents embrace this isolation, turning it into a unique local culture, but for others, it can lead to feelings of loneliness or being cut off from broader society.
Another disadvantage is the aging infrastructure and dated technology found in many of the apartments. Much of the building’s furnishings and electronics are decades old, reflecting limited modernization. While some residents appreciate the retro charm, others find it frustrating, especially when it comes to reliability and comfort. There are also fewer amenities compared to larger towns, and the lack of outdoor space means that activities like gardening or simply going for a walk are more complicated than they would be elsewhere.
Despite these disadvantages, the people of Whittier have adapted in remarkable ways. They follow the tunnel schedule strictly, plan their shopping trips carefully, and rely on each other for support. The high cost of goods and limited services mean that residents often travel outside Whittier for special needs, but they always return to the unique community they call home. As one resident put it,
Living here means accepting the quirks and challenges that come with such a unique setup.
In conclusion, life in Whittier’s single building town is a blend of community closeness and profound isolation. The disadvantages—ranging from limited housing and high costs to strict mobility restrictions and aging infrastructure—are real and shape the daily lives of everyone here. Yet, for those who choose to stay, these challenges are simply part of the story of living under one roof in one of Alaska’s most unusual and resilient towns.
